Campione d'Italia is one of the most unusual places in Italy. A small municipality on the eastern shore of Lake Lugano, covering less than three square kilometers, it has been part of the Italian state since 1861 and yet is completely surrounded by the Swiss canton of Ticino. There is no land connection to the Italian mainland. Anyone looking at the map for the first time might think it is a cartographic error. Yet the enclave is real, has around 1,800 residents, and a history stretching back to the 8th century.
The municipality belongs to the Provincia di Como in Lombardy, but can only be reached from Italy by boat or via Swiss roads. The nearest Italian border is just 500 meters as the crow flies, with Lake Lugano in between. It is precisely this curiosity that makes Campione a destination with a special fascination for many visitors.
How the Exclave Came to Be
The history of Campione begins in 777, when the Lombard ruler Toto di Campione bequeathed the territory to the monastery of Sant'Ambrogio in Milan This meant the town remained Italian ecclesiastical property for many centuries, while the surrounding areas fell under various other sovereignties.
Napoleon Bonaparte dissolved all church properties in 1797 and incorporated Campione into the newly created Cisalpine Republic. Ticino was likewise elevated to a Swiss federal canton by Napoleon in 1798. As early as 1800, and again at the Congress of Vienna in 1814, Ticino attempted to bring Campione into Switzerland, offering in exchange Switzerland's most remote municipality, Indemini, as a trade Both attempts failed, and Campione remained Italian. In 1861, with the founding of the Kingdom of Italy, the present-day border was established. The suffix d'Italia was added in 1933 under Mussolini to emphasize the town's belonging to Italy.
Between Two Countries
For generations, Campione has lived a dual role. Officially the town is Italian, but in practice it relies on Swiss infrastructure. The postal code is Italian (22060), and the vehicle license plates from Como are Italian. However, the telephone country code is +41 (Switzerland), electricity, gas, and water come from Ticino, and children frequently attend Swiss schools. Police and emergency services are also organized in cooperation with Switzerland.
Payments in Campione were traditionally made in Swiss francs, although the euro has been accepted as well since Italy adopted it. Since January 1, 2020, Campione is no longer part of the Swiss customs union but belongs to the EU customs territory. This ended a special tax status that had made the enclave an attractive niche location for the wealthy for decades.
The Casino as a Landmark
The best-known building in Campione is the Casino Municipale. Founded in 1917 during World War I to gather intelligence from foreign diplomats in the neutral zone, it is the oldest casino in Italy. In 2007, the casino moved into a new, imposing building designed by Ticino star architect Mario Botta . At 55,000 square meters spread across nine floors, the building was at one point the largest casino in Europe.
Yet the casino's history is also one of failure. An economic crisis, special taxes, a strong franc, and competition from Ticino's gaming establishments led to insolvency in 2018. The casino was closed, and around 500 employees lost their jobs, many of them residents of Campione or the surrounding Ticino communities. For the small enclave, whose revenues depended heavily on the casino, this was a severe blow. After several years of inactivity, the casino reopened and currently employs around 200 people. Whether the building has a viable long-term economic future remains to be seen.
What Else Campione Has to Offer
Visitors to Campione will find more than just the casino. The pilgrimage church of Santa Maria dei Ghirli , dating from the 17th and 18th centuries, sits directly on the lakeshore and is accessible via a double external staircase. Its frescoes spanning several centuries rank among the most significant religious artistic treasures in the region. The former church of San Zenone, first documented in 756, now serves as an art gallery. The Museo Parrocchiale and the newer parish church of San Zenone, with a baptismal font from 1576, offer further cultural insights.
Campione's longstanding artistic tradition is known under the name of the Maestri Campionesi . From the 12th to the 14th century, the craftsmen, architects, sculptors, and stonemasons from Campione were active throughout northern Italy, shaping churches and palazzi from Milan to Modena. Their works can still be seen today in many of the region's cathedrals.
At the entrance to the town stands the archway Arco di Campione, a landmark from the 1930s that marks the boundary of the enclave. From the lakeside promenade, boats depart for Lugano and other towns along the lake. The surrounding area is ideal for hiking, for example to Monte San Salvatore or Monte Brè, both located on Swiss territory but reachable from Campione within minutes. Further information on excursions in Ticino is available on the official website of Ticino Turismo.
Getting There and Practical Information
Campione is reachable by car from Germany via Switzerland. The route passes through Zürich and the Gotthard to Lugano, then continues along the eastern shore of the lake. Important: Driving through Switzerland requires the Autobahnvignette (highway sticker), which currently costs 40 francs.
Those traveling by train ride to Lugano and from there take a bus or taxi to Campione. Arriving by boat from the Swiss shore is also possible and particularly scenic. The nearest airport is Milan Malpensa, about 75 kilometers away; alternatively, the Swiss airports of Lugano or Zürich are options as well.
A destination with a special character
Campione d'Italia is not a place for an average travel experience. For those interested in border stories, quirky state constructions, and the blend of Italian culture and Swiss precision, this enclave offers a truly unique microcosm. The combination of Mediterranean flair, alpine scenery, and an extraordinary political history makes it a rewarding half-day excursion for anyone looking to add an unusual facet to the classic Italian lakes itinerary. Anyone visiting Lake Lugano should put Campione d'Italia on the list, if only to stand in a place that, strictly speaking, should not exist at all.
