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La Reggia di Caserta: A Masterpiece of Love and Royal Splendor

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Foto: © Bastian Glumm
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Poets express their feelings in verse, musicians enchant us with moving melodies, and artists use their works to help us forget the everyday. Beauty always inspires new beauty. Our world would not be as wonderful if we were unable to express our emotions. Yet it is not only music, art, or literature that preserves the memory of past love. Many examples of radiant, sometimes turbulent feelings can also be found out in the open air.

A palace meant to surpass Versailles

To discover one of these testimonies, there is no need to travel all the way to India. Beyond the Taj Mahal, there are other monuments to true love. Who knows how history might have unfolded had King Charles not met the beautiful Maria Amalia. Without her, he might never have purchased a grand estate or attempted to surpass the splendor of Versailles. Where the magnificent palace in Caserta, the "Reggia di Caserta," stands near Naples today, there might otherwise be nothing but an ordinary stretch of woodland. Yet Karl III of the Bourbon dynasty, who ruled over Naples and Sicily, dedicated to his beloved wife, Queen Maria Amalia of Saxony, the design of the celebrated architect Luigi Vanvitelli. Every corner of the palace's lavish rooms is infused with the love between Karl and Maria. And there are no fewer than 1,200 of these rooms. Green, white, red, and black varieties of marble adorn the elegant halls and chambers, where sculptural ensembles harmonize with colorful frescoes on soaring ceilings.

A staircase of white Carrara marble

Those wishing to visit the "Italian Versailles" should be prepared for a consistently large number of visitors on site. Audio guides are available, though even without them there is no shortage of fascinating things to discover. The palace's most significant attraction is arguably the staircase of white Carrara marble, known as the Vanvitelli Staircase. This multi-story interior stairway symbolizes the transition from darkness, represented by the dim half-light of the ground floor, to light streaming in through tall windows. The central flight is flanked by two lion sculptures symbolizing the power of mind and arms.

Anyone visiting the Reggia di Caserta will not be able to miss the Vanvitelli Staircase. Scenes from several well-known feature films were shot here. (Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
Anyone visiting the Reggia di Caserta will not be able to miss the Vanvitelli Staircase. Scenes from several well-known feature films were shot here. (Photo: © Bastian Glumm)

A popular film set for several Hollywood productions

The palace's magnificent architecture and decoration have also inspired the world of film. Scenes from "Star Wars," "The Da Vinci Code," "Angels & Demons," "Lady Hamilton," and "Mission: Impossible" were all filmed in the "Italian Versailles." On January 20, 1752, Maria Amalia, the king's wife, laid the cornerstone of the palace on her 28th birthday. No one could have guessed that this place would become world-famous and fulfill the deepest dream of the King of Spain, Naples and Sicily. Maria Amalia, who was married at just 14 years of age, was not only Karl's great love but also his advisor and confidante. She oversaw the construction of the palace in Caserta and established porcelain production in Naples. Although the queen lived only to the age of 36, dying of tuberculosis, her legacy lives on in portraits of the royal family and in the library she initiated. Another famous owner of the palace was Caroline Bonaparte, Napoleon's youngest sister and wife of Joachim Murat. She inspired the sculpture of the Greek goddess of justice, which can be seen in the so-called Astraea Hall, the reception room for ambassadors and statesmen.

The grand library, containing more than 12,000 volumes, was established by Maria Carolina, who was married to King Ferdinand I. (Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
The grand library, containing more than 12,000 volumes, was established by Maria Carolina, who was married to King Ferdinand I. (Photo: © Bastian Glumm)

The palace in Caserta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

A walk through the palace's rooms takes more than an hour. But a visit to the palace is not complete without a detour into the magnificent park. The 120-hectare park consists of two sections: an area featuring fountains and an English-style landscape garden. During the visit, only the first section of the park was explored, with a firm decision made to discover the rest on a future trip. Those who prefer to skip the uphill walk can take small shuttle buses . Alternatively, it is possible to ride the bus to the top and walk back down, taking in the magnificent views of the artificial waterfalls and fountains along the way. Sculptures of Diana, Actaeon, Venus, Adonis, and dolphins lend the park a special charm. The paths lead visitors to a small hexagonal tower, the Castelluccia, where the king would rest after hunting.

Caserta: The "Great Waterfall" is a true showstopper

A genuine highlight is the "Great Waterfall," fed by an aqueduct 82 meters high. At its base, an impressive mythological scene unfolds: Diana prepares for a bath, accompanied by Actaeon and nymphs. No matter how detailed a description may be, and no matter how many images can be found online, the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the "Italian Versailles" can only truly be appreciated with a personal visit. The impressions, it is safe to say, will be unforgettable. Reggia di Caserta Address: Piazza Carlo di Borbone, 81100 Caserta, Italy.

Opening hours

Royal Apartments daily 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. (ticket office closes at 6:00 p.m., last admission at 6:45 p.m.). Royal Park from 8:30 a.m.; closing times: January 4:00 p.m., February 4:30 p.m., March 5:00 p.m., April to September 7:00 p.m., October 5:30 p.m., November to December 3:00 p.m. Englischer Garten from 8:00 AM, closing times: January 3:00 PM, February 3:30 PM, March 4:00 PM, April - September 6:00 PM, October 5:00 PM, November 3:00 PM, December 2:30 PM. Closed: Tuesdays, January 1, December 25. Note: Book tickets in advance, to avoid waiting times.

(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
(Photo: © Bastian Glumm)
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