It was summer when we visited Bologna, during one of those heat waves where the stone beneath your feet seems almost to melt. And there we suddenly stood on the Piazza Maggiore , the city's main square, which holds centuries of history within it. Its origins were no coincidence: as early as the beginning of the 13th century, Bologna was growing rapidly, driven by its university, trade, and crafts.
At that time, the city was governed by consuls and later by so-called Podestà, outside administrators who were elected to keep the power struggles of local noble families in check. It was they who began buying up properties and clearing space to create a large central square, a place where life would pulse, markets would be held, and people would gather. That is how the Piazza Maggiore came to be, "the great square."
Powerful families and papal rule
In the centuries that followed, various forces shaped the square's story. First came the commune and powerful families such as the Bentivoglio, who effectively controlled the city during the 15th century. Later, the popes took over: in 1506, Pope Julius II incorporated Bologna into the Papal States, and the city remained under Roman control, with brief interruptions, well into the 19th century.
That legacy is still felt today: the Basilica di San Petronio was originally intended to become the largest church in Europe, even larger than St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. But the popes had the construction halted, which is why the facade remains unfinished to this day, a fact that lends it a very particular charm.
Buildings that tell stories
Around the square stand structures that bear witness to this power and history. The Palazzo d'Accursio was once the city hall and today houses a library and a museum. We took a photograph in its inner courtyard, surrounded by walls that have witnessed many rulers and shifts of power. The Palazzo dei Notai is a reminder of the era when notaries wielded enormous influence. The Palazzo del Podestà represents the age of outside city administrators. And the Palazzo dei Banchi, built in the 16th century, reflects just how important trade and banking were to Bologna.
An extraordinarily vibrant square
Today, the Piazza Maggiore is far more than a chapter in history: it serves as a gathering place, concert stage, festival grounds, and in summer even an open-air cinema. One can simply sit on the stone steps, watch the people go by, and sense that Bologna is no museum but a living city that preserves its heritage while breathing fully in the present. For those who want to go even deeper, a visit to the nearby Biblioteca Salaborsais a must: through its glass floor, genuine Roman ruins are visible below, like a historical matryoshka doll.
