A return visit to Anticus, the ristorante-pizzeria in the heart of Pozzuoli, once again left us with the feeling of having experienced something truly special. Located directly across from the imposing Macellum the Anticus achieves what only a handful of establishments manage: it brings together the soul of a historic site with the freshness of contemporary cuisine.
That impression begins the moment one steps inside. The eye drifts across carefully designed interiors, over marble, wood, and fine details, before finally coming to rest on the terrace, with an unobstructed view of the Roman excavations. A scene almost too picturesque to be real, and exactly the right place to sit back and savor the moment. Which is precisely what was done.
An elegant balance between tradition and modernity
Anticus opened in September 2023 with a clear culinary vision that is immediately apparent. The goal here is not to blindly replicate time-honored recipes but to carry the Campanian tradition forward with creativity. Manager Nino Lombardi puts it succinctly: "We want to preserve the flavors of our region without standing still. Tradition and innovation go hand in hand here, with attention to every detail."
Even during our first visit it was striking how consistently this philosophy is put into practice. The kitchen draws on the finest regional ingredients and gives them a modern, light touch. Anticus is not a museum of the pastbut a place where the present is lived and savored.
Pizza with personality, and a look behind the scenes
A real highlight was the Pizza Nuda e Cruda, a particularly creative and decidedly non-traditional variation: an open focaccia featuring 125 grams of Mozzarella di bufala campana, Tomatini Datterini, arugula, Parma prosciutto (aged 18 months), and Grana Padano, served for around 14 €.
This "ripieno aperto" is folded closed at the end and presented like a filled dough pillow in which the ingredients meld together at the core. Unlike a classic Margherita , it feels modern, surprising, and full of flavor.
At Anticus, the neapolitan pizza culture crafted with artisanal care: from the long-fermented dough to the specially seasoned flour blend. Nino Lombardi adds: "Every pizza starts for us with the right dough, fermented for 48 to 72 hours, using high-quality flours and sometimes turmeric or activated charcoal to refine it."
On our last visit, we also had the privilege of watching the pizzaiolo work up close, right in the middle of preparing the Nuda e Cruda. From shaping and topping to sliding the pizza into the hot stone oven, every step was visible. For us, it was a remarkable glimpse into the high art of this extraordinary dish.
A Kitchen Between Land and Sea
The menu impresses well beyond the pizza. It moves skillfully between land and sea, featuring seasonal produce, plenty of vegetables, freshly caught fish, and meat from carefully selected producers. Everything feels precisely composed, nothing overwrought. The chef demonstrates both skill and restraint in equal measure.
Two dishes that left a lasting impression were fried anchovies with mint and a risotto with squid ink, citrus, and bottarga, bold yet light. "Our goal is to bring out the best in every ingredient through attention and artisanal precision," Lombardi continues. Worth noting: those who follow a gluten-free diet can dine here without worry, as there is a dedicated station with a separate oven.
Ancient Ambiance, Modern Experience
What makes Anticus truly special is the overall composition: the food, the atmosphere, the view, and the feeling of being genuinely valued as a guest. It is a restaurant that is fully aware of its setting, yet does not rely on it alone. Instead, it thrives on quality and on people like Nino Lombardi, who know exactly what they are doing.
A return visit is always a pleasure. And every time, there is the feeling of having taken a small culinary journey through Campania, through antiquity, and above all through a kitchen that forges its own path.
Our Recommendation
For an evening visit, reserving a table on the terrace is highly recommended. At sunset, with views of the Roman ruins and a glass of white wine in hand, it becomes clear why places like the Anticus are more than just restaurants, they are experiences.