Spring, April, the sun shining through young leaves just now unfurling after their winter's rest — the perfect time for a walk. The decision was made to head to the Lago d'Averno , a enchanting lake hidden in the crater of an ancient volcano near Pozzuoli, just a few kilometers from Naples, in the Italian region of Campania. But don't be fooled into thinking this is simply a beautiful spot with water. No, this place was once surrounded by a whispered reputation: "The entrance to hell lies here…"
A gateway to the underworld for the Romans
Indeed, and that is no poetic exaggeration. In antiquity, the Lago d'Averno was considered a genuine gateway to the underworld , to Hades. The name derives from the Latin Avernus, meaning "birdless." It was believed that birds flying over the lake fell dead to the ground, poisoned by toxic vapors. And while modern science explains this through natural volcanic gases such as hydrogen sulfide and carbon dioxide, there is still something distinctly eerie in the air. A faint sulfurous smell, the occasional bubbles rising from the depths, and the dark water, deep and shimmering — like eyes that have witnessed things long since forgotten. And then — most fascinating of all — this very location served as the setting for one of the most celebrated scenes in Roman poetry. In Virgil's Aeneid , Aeneas, guided by the Cumaean Sibyl, descends into the underworld. And the starting point of that mystical journey? Right here, on the shores of the Lago d'Averno.
Warships once anchored here
In Roman times, this place held not only mythical but also strategic significance. Emperor Augustus ordered the construction of Portus Julius here, a military harborconnected to the sea by a canal. Warships once lay at anchor in what is now a tranquil lake. The dark water thus evokes both legend and iron. During the Roman civil war, the Lago d'Averno played a considerable military role. In 37 BCE, Marcus Vipsanius Agrippa, Octavian's closest confidant and fleet commander (Octavian later became Augustus), had a massive military shipyard built at the Lago d'Averno. The lake was connected to the nearby sea by canals, creating a concealed, well-protected naval base. Amid the dense vegetation and steaming hills of this volcanic region, the warships were built with which Octavian would go on to triumph at the Battle of Actium.
Green slopes, wild vines, and flowers
And the visitors? They simply walked. It was quiet, yet full of sounds: birds calling over one another, footsteps crunching on gravel, the hum of life filling the spring air. Green slopes, wild vines, flowersopening in the first warm rays of sunshine. There was laughter, deep breaths of fresh air, and occasional pauses to gaze at the dark water, as if to ask: "Well then, are you still the gateway to hell?" The lake said nothing. It simply smiled with a dark shimmer.
A place of stillness, beauty, and memory
Today, the Lago d'Averno is no longer a place of fear, but one of stillness, beauty, and memory. It is ideal for reflecting on myths, poetry, and the human longing for the incomprehensible. Perfect for a spring walk and for leaving a small piece of oneself behind.
ℹ️ Visitor information for the Lago d'Averno
📍 Location
The Lago d'Averno is located in the municipality of Pozzuoli, roughly four kilometers west of Naples, in the Italian region of Campania. It sits at the heart of the Phlegraean Fields (Campi Flegrei), a geologically active zone with numerous ancient volcanic craters.
🚗 Getting there & parking
By car:
From Naples, the lake is easily reached via the Tangenziale (A56), exit "Arco Felice" or "Pozzuoli". From there, simply follow the signs toward "Lago d'Averno."
Parking:
Several parking areas are available along Via Lago Averno. Particularly convenient is the lot on the southeastern shore near a café, which makes a great starting point for the walk around the lake.
🚌 Public transportation
Bus:
Bus line 906 connects the center of Pozzuoli directly to the Lago d'Averno. The stop is just a short walk from the shore.
Train:
The Cumana rail line stops at the "Lucrino" station, from which the lake is approximately a 15 to 20 minute walk.
🥾 Trail around the lake
A roughly 2.8-kilometer flat loop trail runs directly around the Lago d'Averno. The path is well-maintained and perfectly suited for a leisurely stroll, jogging, or cycling. Ideal for families.
🍽️ Dining options
Several inviting restaurants are situated around the lake. A particularly pleasant spot is the "Agriturismo Cantine dell'Averno", where regional specialties are served amid vineyards and natural surroundings.