How can a city near Naples be connected to a famous actress and singer, one might wonder. Was she not born in Rome? Yes, that is true, but Sophia Costanza Brigida Villani Scicolone spent her childhood in Pozzuoli. Perhaps it was on one of the local beaches that the dream of a slim young girl of a glittering career was born. And it was in Pozzuoli that the star of the "Golden Age of Hollywood", better known as Sophia Loren, performed in concert for many years.
The Apostle Paul spent four days in Pozzuoli
Pozzuoli cannot compete with the great city of Naples and its national significance, of course, but it too offers picturesque spots for relaxation, sandy and rocky beaches, and countless architectural monuments of the mighty Roman Empire. Pozzuoli is known not only for a historical mystery from the Second Punic War, when the troops of the Carthaginian general Hannibal surrounded the city. The proximity of Puteoli, as the Romans renamed the Greek colony of Dikaiarcheia, to the Via Appia made the city an important trading port. Many merchants sent their ships laden with precious stones, spices, and slaves to this part of the Gulf of Naples.
And it was in this very port that a ship once arrived carrying a figure of great significance. His fame was no less than that of Hannibal. On his way to Rome, where he was to be executed, the Apostle Paul spent seven days in Puteoli. The city is mentioned in the final chapter of the Acts of the Apostles.
A great deal of volcanic activity around Pozzuoli
To the northwest of Pozzuoli lies Lake Avernus. Due to the volcanic activity that produced toxic vapors, the ancient Romans considered the lake and a nearby cave to be an entrance to the underworld. They were described by Virgil in his Aeneid as the realm of the dead . But enough history, it is time to turn to leisure. Already from the airplane window, a magnificent view of Naples and its surroundings opened up, with the yellow rooftops of houses at the foot of Vesuvius. Even though the great volcano has not produced any threatening sounds for a long time, the memory of nature's unpredictability and the tragedy associated with it remains both fascinating and awe-inspiring.
The last eruption of Vesuvius occurred in 1944
Who are we humans in this world of rugged mountains, impenetrable forests, and endless oceans? Small and sometimes helpless as children, we ignore nature's warnings, just as the inhabitants once did in 79 BC. The last eruption of Vesuvius occurred in 1944, and in 1980 an earthquake caused damage in Naples and the surrounding suburbs, including Pozzuoli. For many years now, gray concrete structures have risen up among well-maintained two-story houses This is neither a whim nor negligence on the part of the city administration. After the earthquake, many houses were destroyed, and the government decided to help those affected by constructing temporary concrete apartments . These new apartments cannot be sold, they can only be inherited.
Many thermal springs throughout the region
On the way to Pozzuoli, one encounters mountains. Today they are green and blooming, but centuries ago they were active volcanoes. That is why there are so many thermal springsalong the coastline of the Gulf of Naples. In Pozzuoli there is even an active volcano, the Solfatara. The name derives from the Italian word "zolfo", meaning sulfur. Once inside the city limits, the smell of hydrogen sulfide is unmistakable. In addition to the characteristic odor, slight tremors can also be felt. Even so, guided tours of the caldera are still offered today. Unfortunately, in 2017 one of these tours ended in tragedy: a child left the safe path and was swallowed by the earth. The child's mother tried to help, then the father, and all of them perished. Anyone visiting the Solfatara is therefore strongly advised to follow all safety regulations. At present, however, a visit is not possible, as access has been completely closed due to the significant seismic activity of recent times.
A Mediterranean climate and paradisiacal landscapes
The Mediterranean climate, paradisiacal landscapes, and delicious food create ideal conditions for relaxation and well-being. The true character of southern Italy can only be discovered by immersing oneself in the lives of the locals. Visiting Pozzuoli as a tourist is one thing, becoming part of it is another. There is the pleasure of strolling alone along the promenade, buying groceries at the small supermarket across the street, listening to the shopkeeper chat with the locals, and adapting to the daily rhythm: waking early because of the heat, an afternoon siesta, and late dinners. The loud conversations may come as a surprise, but they are not arguments, that is simply how expressive Italians are. Small statues of the Virgin Mary surrounded by flowers and candles can be seen everywhere, and many passers-by make the sign of the cross. Every feast day is celebrated with processions, joined by those passing by, so deeply rooted is religious life here.
Pozzuoli is much quieter than Naples
The bittersweet scent of coffee permeates every corner of the apartment. Dinner with family or friends, naturally featuring Neapolitan pizza, the best in the entire country, can be no Luxury hotelreplace. And what else makes cities like Pozzuoli so special? It is far quieter than Naples. Here, one can truly switch off and let the sea do its healing. The large, crescent-shaped volcanic island of Nisida lies to the east of the turquoise sea of Pozzuoli. Unfortunately, it could only be admired from the promenade. Although a road connects it to the mainland, the island is closed to tourists: it is home to an air force academy, a NATO base, and a juvenile detention center.
Juvenile detention center on the island of Nisida
In earlier times, it was believed that sirens lived between Nisida and Capri. Today, young offenders serve their sentences there. Over the past 20 years, there has been only one escape. Police immediately alerted the public, Helicopters circled over the city, and more officers patrolled the streets, as the escaped youth had killed his own parents. Fortunately, he was found and brought back within a day. For those looking to visit an island, Ischia or Capri are the safer choices. The decision was made to head to the beach at Pozzuoli instead. July was scorching, and by nine in the morning it was barely bearable. Rising at six, a quick breakfast, and then off to the beach, with the car already coated in the sand carried by the local wind known as "Siracusano."
Small secret beach in Bacoli near Villa Ferretti
By seven in the morning, the sun loungers were already set up and the first swimmers were in the water. There is also a small, rocky secret beach in Bacoli that even many locals are unaware of. It is located near Villa Ferretti, once owned by a Mafia clan. Naples, after all, is known not only for its fine food but also for its Camorra.
Entry and parking are free, provided something is ordered at the café. That day, breakfast was enjoyed there as well. Many others did the same. They had come from northern Italy, renting apartments as the more affordable option, and were spending their vacation along the coast with their families, especially after the severe hailstorms that had struck Lombardy the previous year.
Visiting the Flavian Amphitheater in Pozzuoli
The drive from Pozzuoli to Bacoli takes only about 20 minutes. Villa Ferretti, now a symbol of national restitution, does not stand empty: the Università Federico II has established an institute for underwater archaeology there. Access to the building itself is not permitted, but one can sit in the shade of the park, stretch out on the pebbles, and swim in the clear water, after a coffee at the café. As the evening cools around seven o'clock, a visit to the Flavian Amphitheater is well worth it, though it is smaller than the Colosseum, as are the ruins of the ancient marketplace. And be sure not to miss a proper Margherita pizza, enjoyed in the gentle sunlight with the soft sound of the waves in the background.