After 13 hours on the road, we were thoroughly exhausted. Behind us lay Solingen, Switzerland and a long day on the motorway; ahead of us were still more than 500 kilometres to Pozzuoli. Agriturismo Prunara near Monzuno was intended simply as a place to sleep for the night. The following morning, we drove on with the feeling of having discovered somewhere we would genuinely like to return to. And next time, not just for one night.
When we set off from Solingen on the morning of 20 September at around three o'clock, more than 1,600 kilometres lay ahead of us. Our destination was Pozzuoli near Naples, our new home in Italy. Originally, the plan had been to drive the entire distance in one go. Looking back, it is a relief that this never happened. Our Ford Focus was packed to the brim, and on the back seat our two cats, Pusia and Liza, were travelling with us. For the two of them, the journey was naturally anything but a pleasure. After many hours in the car, heat, traffic and a considerable amount of feline protest, it was not only Pusia and Liza whose nerves were fraying.
After roughly 13 hours of driving, that was enough for one day. We had found our accommodation in the Bolognese Apennines: the Agriturismo Prunara Farmstead F.lli Santoli near Monzuno, south of Bologna. Even in the final few kilometres, the scenery changed completely. The motorway and traffic were left behind, the roads grew narrower and the landscape greener. After a day spent almost entirely in the company of tarmac, motorway service stations and a car interior, even the drive up into the Apennines was a welcome relief.
A warm welcome at Agriturismo Prunara
On arrival, we were greeted with genuine warmth. The owners were friendly, straightforward and very attentive. Our Italian is currently somewhere between A2 and B1, which was not an issue in the slightest. Communication was easy, and whenever a word was missing, a solution was quickly found. For travellers who are learning Italian and still feel a little hesitant about actually using the language, an atmosphere such as this is a real comfort.
Our room was on the top floor of the house and featured a large double bed as well as an en-suite bathroom with shower. Everything was very clean and well maintained. The furnishings also appealed to us: tasteful and characterful, without the charm of an old country house being smothered by artificial luxury. Indeed, Prunara is a thoroughly charming place. It does not feel like a rural hotel that has been dressed up as rustic after the fact, but rather like what it actually is: an agriturismo in the heart of the Apennines. The value for money also came as a very pleasant surprise. A specific room rate is not quoted here, as this can vary depending on the season and when the booking is made.
An evening in the heart of the Bolognese Apennines
Although after such a long day on the road we had really had quite enough, we ventured outside again that evening. It was well worth it, as the setting is one of Prunara's greatest strengths. The views across the Apennine landscape are magnificent, and the tranquillity was exactly what was needed after so many hours on the road. We walked for a while through the surrounding area, enjoyed the evening and, for once, had no need to keep an eye on the clock or the kilometres still to come. Our two cats were finally able to settle down as well.
The agriturismo's animal residents also include two rather impressive dogs, a male and a female. Both are enormous and at the same time exceptionally friendly. We initially took them for Saint Bernards, though we are not entirely certain of the breed and shall leave it at that. The fact that we ourselves arrived with two cats was equally uncomplicated. For those embarking on a longer trip to Italy with pets, this is an advantage not to be underestimated.
Close to the Via degli Dei between Bologna and Florence
It was only when we looked into Prunara more closely afterwards that we realised how interesting the location is for a longer stay as well. The agriturismo is situated near Monzuno, just a short distance from the Via degli Dei , the well-known long-distance walking route that connects Bologna with Florence across the Apennines. For walkers, Prunara even offers a complimentary transfer from the piazza in Monzuno to the property.
Beyond the Via degli Dei , there is plenty to discover in the surrounding area. Monte Venere and Monte Adone are both in the region, as is the historic Parco di Monte Sole. Marzabotto, with its Etruscan excavation site at Kainua, is also within reach. In hindsight, this was almost a slight regret for us, as there had been no time planned for such excursions on this particular journey. Prunara was, after all, intended solely as an overnight stop.
Dinner and breakfast at the agriturismo
The agriturismo has its own restaurant, which after 13 hours of driving was a genuine blessing. Getting back into the car and heading somewhere for dinner was simply not an option, particularly as the property sits up in the hills and the nearest ristorante would have required quite a journey. So the evening was spent in-house, and the food was good. The ragù sauce in particular left a very favourable impression . The cooking is unpretentious and hearty, which suited our stay perfectly.
The following morning brought a small Italian breakfast. No vast buffet, but perfectly sufficient and, above all, charmingly presented. After a restful night, there was time to enjoy a coffee and breakfast at leisure before the packing began again. The journey was far from over: Pozzuoli was still roughly six and a half hours away.
More than just a stopover on the way south
For us, Prunara was initially a purely practical decision. We were looking for somewhere along our route where we could spend the night with two cats, in order to avoid tackling the 1,600-plus kilometre drive to Pozzuoli in a single stretch. We had not expected a great deal beyond that. Which is precisely why the stay came as such a pleasant surprise.
After just one night, it would be presumptuous to offer a comprehensive review. What can be said, however, is what was experienced first-hand: a genuinely warm welcome, a lovely and very clean room, good food, a magnificent landscape and outstanding value for money. Above all, that evening was exactly what was needed after an exhausting first day of travel. For a few hours, it was possible to truly arrive in Italy, rather than simply watching the country pass by through a windscreen.
When we got back into the car the following morning, one thing was clear: Prunara is somewhere we would return to without hesitation. Next time, however, not necessarily just in passing. Two or three days in the Bolognese Apennines, a bit of walking, exploring the area and returning to the agriturismo each evening: after our first night there, that is a prospect we can imagine very easily indeed.
