After 13 hours on the road, we were thoroughly exhausted. Behind us lay Solingen, Switzerland, and a long day on the motorway; ahead, more than 600 kilometres to Pozzuoli. The Agriturismo Prunara near Monzuno was meant to be nothing more than a place to sleep for the night. Yet the following morning we left with the feeling of having discovered somewhere we would happily return to. And next time, not just for one night.
When we set off from Solingen at around three o'clock in the morning on 20 September, more than 1,600 kilometres lay ahead of us. Our destination was Pozzuoli near Naples, our new home in Italy. I had originally planned to drive the whole distance in one go. Looking back, I am very glad that never happened. Our Ford Focus was packed to the brim, and on the back seat our two cats, Pusia and Liza, were travelling with us. For the two of them, the journey was naturally anything but a pleasure. After many hours in the car, the heat, the traffic, and a considerable amount of feline protest, it was not only Pusia and Liza whose nerves were fraying.
After around 13 hours of driving, that was enough for one day. We had found our accommodation in the Bolognese Apennines: the Agriturismo Prunara Farmstead F.lli Santoli near Monzuno, south of Bologna. Even in the final few kilometres the scenery changed completely. We left the motorway and its traffic behind, the roads grew narrower and the landscape greener. After a day spent almost entirely on tarmac, at service stations, and inside the car, the drive up into the Apennines alone was a welcome relief.
A warm welcome at Agriturismo Prunara
On arrival, we were given an exceptionally warm welcome. The owners were friendly, straightforward, and very attentive. Our Italian is currently somewhere between A2 and B1, which posed no problem whatsoever. We were able to communicate well, and whenever a word was missing, a solution was quickly found. For travellers who are learning Italian and still feel a little hesitant about actually using the language, an atmosphere such as this is genuinely reassuring.
Our room was on the top floor of the house and had two beds as well as a private bathroom with a shower. Everything was very clean and well kept. We also liked the furnishings: tasteful and unpretentious, without masking the character of an old country house with artificial luxury. Prunara is, in general, a very charming place. It does not feel like a rural hotel that has been dressed up to look rustic after the fact, but rather exactly what it is: an agriturismo in the heart of the Apennines. The value for money also came as a very pleasant surprise. A specific room rate is deliberately not mentioned here, as prices can vary depending on the season and when a booking is made.
An evening in the heart of the Bolognese Apennines
Although we had already experienced more than enough for one day after the long drive, we ventured outside again that evening. It was well worth it, as the location is one of Prunara's greatest strengths. The view across the Apennine landscape is magnificent, and the peace and quiet was exactly what we needed after all those hours on the road. We strolled around the surrounding areafor a while, enjoyed the evening, and for once had no need to keep an eye on the clock or the remaining kilometres. Our two cats were finally able to settle down as well.
The agriturismo's animal residents also include two rather impressive dogs, a male and a female. Both are enormous and, at the same time, exceptionally friendly. We initially took them for St Bernards, though we are not entirely certain of the breed and so prefer to leave it at that description. The fact that we arrived with two cats of our own was also entirely straightforward. Particularly on a longer Italian holiday with pets, this is an advantage not to be underestimated.
Close to the Via degli Dei between Bologna and Florence
It was only afterwards, when we looked more closely into Prunara, that we realised how interesting its location would be for a longer stay. The agriturismo is situated near Monzuno, just a short distance from the Via degli Dei , the well-known long-distance walking route connecting Bologna with Florence across the Apennines. For walkers, Prunara even offers a complimentary transfer from the piazza in Monzuno to the property.
Away from the Via degli Dei , there is also much to discover in the surrounding area. Monte Venere and Monte Adone are both in the region, as is the historic Monte Sole park. Marzabotto, with its Etruscan excavation site of Kainua, is likewise within reach. In hindsight, this was almost a slight disappointment for us, as we had left no time whatsoever for such excursions on this particular trip. Prunara was, after all, intended purely as an overnight stop.
Dinner and breakfast at the agriturismo
The agriturismo has its own restaurant, which was a genuine advantage after 13 hours of driving. Getting back in the car and heading somewhere for dinner was absolutely the last thing we wanted, especially given that the accommodation is set in the hills and the nearest ristorante would have been quite a distance away. So we spent the evening in-house and ate well. The ragù sauce in particular left a very positive impression . The cooking is uncomplicated and hearty, which suited our stay perfectly.
The following morning brought a modest Italian breakfast. No vast buffet, but perfectly sufficient and, above all, presented with a great deal of charm. After a restful night, there was still time to enjoy a coffee and breakfast in peace before packing up again. Our journey was far from over: another six and a half hours of driving lay between us and Pozzuoli.
More than just a stopover on the way south
Prunara was, for us, a purely practical decision. We were looking for somewhere along our route where we could stay overnight with two cats, so as to avoid tackling the journey of more than 1,600 kilometres to Pozzuoli in one stretch. We had not expected a great deal more than that. Which is precisely why the stay came as such a pleasant surprise.
After just one night, it would not be fair to offer a comprehensive review. What can be said, however, is what was actually experienced: an exceptionally warm welcome, a lovely and very clean room, good food, a magnificent landscape , and outstanding value for money. Above all, that evening did us a great deal of good after an exhausting first day of travel. For a few hours, it was possible to truly arrive in Italy, rather than simply watching the country pass by through a windscreen.
When we got back into the car the following morning, one thing was clear: Prunara is somewhere we would return to without hesitation. Next time, however, not necessarily just in passing. Two or three days in the Bolognese Apennines, a little walking, exploring the area, and returning to the agriturismo in the evening: after our first night there, that is something we can imagine very easily indeed.
