While palms and camellias on the shores of Lago Maggiore still bear witness to a mild climate well into October, just a few kilometres away chestnuts, beeches and larches blaze in yellow, copper and red. A small narrow-gauge railway leads straight into this other world: the Treno del Foliage connects Domodossola, the main town of the Ossola valleys, with Locarno at the northern tip of the great lake of northern Italy, whose summer months are shaped by concert series such as the Stresa Festival . From 10 October to 15 November 2026, it travels through the autumn forests of the Centovalli and the Valle Vigezzo, making the region's spectacular colours accessible through large panoramic windows.
The Treno del Foliage from Domodossola to Locarno
The Vigezzina-Centovalli railway runs year-round between Domodossola on the Italian side and Locarno on the Swiss side. When the forests change colour, it becomes the Treno del Foliage, the train of autumn colours. Over a distance of 52 kilometres, the narrow-gauge railway traverses two scenically very different valleys: the wildly romantic Centovalli in the Swiss canton of Ticino and the more open Valle Vigezzo, framed by wooded mountain slopes.
A return ticket costs between 36 and 51 euros depending on the day of the week and class of carriage, and includes one optional journey break, which can be taken either on the outward or return leg. Bookings and ticket purchases are handled via the official website of the Ferrovia Vigezzina-Centovalli. Domodossola has also been accessible since September 2026 via the new night train European Sleeper , which runs from Cologne via the Simplon route to Milan, stopping at the departure station of the Treno del Foliage. The panoramic carriage, with its large windows, offers a view that does full justice to the description "grand natural cinema" .
The Valle Vigezzo: valley of painters and pumpkin festival
The Valle Vigezzo bears its nickname Valle dei Pittori, "valley of painters", for good reason. In the 19th and 20th centuries, it produced a number of significant artists who captured the landscapes of their home valley on canvas and studied or worked in the great art centres of Italy and France. They brought the painting of their region to the attention of audiences far beyond the valley's borders. The Scuola di Belle Arti Rossetti Valentini , founded in 1878 in Santa Maria Maggiore, the main town of the valley, today houses a picture gallery with works from the Vigezzina school of painting.
On 17 and 18 October 2026, Santa Maria Maggiore also celebrates Fuori di Zucca. For two days, the historic centre around the church tower revolves entirely around the pumpkin. Market stalls, autumnal decorations and regional specialities make the festival a draw for all those who wish to experience autumn through food and drink. Further information about the town and the valley can be found on the official portal of Santa Maria Maggiore.
MeleMiele in Baceno: apples and honey from the Ossola valleys
Those who leave the Treno del Foliage at Domodossola and travel further north will reach the Valle Antigorio and, some 30 kilometres further on, Baceno, the gateway to the Alpe Devero nature park and the neighbouring Valle Formazza. On 31 October and 1 November 2026, this mountain village plays host to the autumn market MeleMiele. The focus is on apples, honey and other produce from the Ossola valleys.
Regional producers present their specialities there and offer an insight into farming traditionsthat continue to shape life in the mountain valleys to this day. The Ossola region and its valleys are introduced on the official tourism portal Visit Ossola , with information on walking routes, villages and seasonal events.
Chestnut festivals in Coimo, Cannobio and Cannero Riviera
Autumn in the hinterland of Lago Maggiore traditionally brings the Castagnate, rural chestnut festivals. Particularly steeped in tradition is the Castagnata Coimese in Coimo, a small village in the Valle Vigezzo. In Cannobio at the entrance to the Valle Cannobina, and in Cannero Riviera on the Piedmontese shore of the lake, people also gather for chestnut festivals. The chestnuts are roasted over an open fire and are usually served alongside other regional specialities such as sausage, cheese or polenta. Information about Cannobio and the Valle Cannobina is provided by the Pro Loco Cannobio, and information about Cannero Riviera by the official website of the municipality.
The chestnut forests shape large parts of the valleys in the hinterland of the great lake. For centuries, their fruits served as a vital staple food, sparing the local population from many a famine. Today, sweet chestnuts are cherished as a cultural heritage and regional speciality, celebrated with music and wine. Autumn in the hinterland of Lago Maggiore is therefore not merely a matter of colours, but also of aromas.
