Nestled between the Apennines and the Adriatic lies an Italian region that is often overlooked. Molise stretches across 4,460 square kilometres, ranks among the least densely populated regions in Italy, and came into being as the result of a comparatively recent political decision. In the year 1963 the territory separated from the Abruzzo and became a region in its own right. Since then, the region has remained far less known to tourists than its neighbours, while maintaining a distinctive cultural and natural profile.
Two provinces, 136 municipalities
The region comprises two provinces, Campobasso and Isernia, along with 136 municipalities. The regional capital is Campobasso, with just under 47,400 inhabitants. Isernia is the second provincial capital; the province of the same name borders Lazio and Campania. The distance between the mountains and the sea is roughly 90 kilometres as the crow flies. The landscape ranges from the uplands of the central Apennines, through rolling hills, to the narrow Adriatic coast near Termoli.
The Mainarde and the Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise National Park
The western part of the region borders the Parco Nazionale d'Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise. Here rise the Mainarde, a mountain range along the border with Lazio. The national park is home to the Marsican brown bear, the Apennine wolf and red deer. Further east, the Matese massif forms the boundary with Campania. Between beech forests and karst plateaus lie grazing lands where livestock farming continues to this day. These upland areas provide the natural backdrop against which Molise has developed its most significant cultural landscape .
Transumanza and tratturi: UNESCO World Heritage
The transumanza, the seasonal migration of shepherds with their flocks between summer and winter pastures, has a centuries-old tradition in Molise. Along the tratturi, broad historic grass drove roads, the flocks moved between Abruzzo, Molise and the Apulian Tavoliere. In December 2019, UNESCO inscribed the Transumanza on its list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, as a joint nomination by Italy, Austria and Greece. The most important tratturi in the region, including the Tratturo Magno between L'Aquila and Foggia, are today part of a walking networkconnecting villages, pastures and archaeological sites.
Pietrabbondante and the Samnite Heritage
Long before the Romans, Molise was settled by the Samnites. In the village of Pietrabbondante in the province of Isernia lies the most important cult and assembly centre of the Samnium Pentrumbuilt between the late 2nd and early 1st century BC. The theatre, with its semicircular orchestrastone terracing and a stage 2.75 metres high, served both sacred performances and political assemblies. Above the seating stood two supporting figures fashioned as telamonesAmong the finds is a gilded bronze tablet bearing an Oscan inscription, documenting the senate's resolution to construct the complex. Directly beside the theatre stands Temple B, the religious centre of the Pentri.
Agnone, Bells and Copper
In the Alto Molisethe northern part of the region, lies Agnone. The town is a member of the Bandiere arancioni of the Touring Club Italiano and is renowned for a centuries-old craft: the making of liturgical bells. The Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli is regarded as one of the oldest bell foundries in the world and claims to have been producing, since the Middle Ages, bells for churches across the globe, including for the Vatican. Added to this is a long tradition of copper and tin craftsmanship, which has earned Agnone the popular nickname Capitale del Rame . Along the town's narrow lanes, small workshops line the streets where cauldrons, pans and decorative pieces are crafted by hand.
The coast near Termoli and the Isole Tremiti
The eastern strip of Molise opens out onto the Adriatic. Termoli is the most important port and seaside resort, with a historic old town perched on a rocky spur above the fishing harbour. To the south lies Campomarino, which in 2023 was awarded the Bandiera Blu by the FEE for water quality and beach infrastructure. From Termoli, ferries run to the Tremitiislands, which administratively belong to Apulia but are most easily reached from Molise. Behind the coast, hills stretch out with olive groves and small vineyards, which, together with the towns of Larino and San Martino in Pensilis , define the character of the Basso Molise .
Cuisine, wine and the best time to visit
Molisano cuisine is rustic and rooted in the mountains. Among the products with a strong regional identity are Caciocavallo di Agnone, a spindle-shaped aged cow's milk cheese, the Soppressatacured sausage, and the Pampanella, a spicy oven-roasted pork dish. In terms of wine , the Tintilia takes centre stage, an autochthonous red grape variety produced as Tintilia del Molise DOC . The best time to visit is between May and October. The fastest route by road is via the motorway A14, which connects Bologna, Pescara and Termoli, or via the A1 from Rome and Naples as far as Caianello, then onwards along the state road SS 85. Rail connections are available via Pescara to Termoli on the coast, and via Benevento to Campobasso inland.
