We spent three days in Rimini for the TTG Travel Experience trade fair. Numerous conversations, new contacts and a wealth of impressions lay behind us. On the Friday, the drive back to Pozzuoli was on the agenda. Before setting off on the long journey south, however, there was time for a brief detour . The destination: San Marino. From Rimini, it is only around 40 minutes by car to the small state entirely surrounded by Italy.
I must admit that I had barely given San Marino any thought beforehand. Of course, I knew it was one of the smallest states in Europe and that its historic old town sits on a hilltop. What actually awaited us there, however, I had significantly underestimated.
A sovereign state in the heart of Italy
Even on the approach, it became clear that San Marino is geographically far more impressive than I had imagined. The historic capital does not simply sit on a hill; it clings to the imposing Monte Titano, which rises to 739 metres above sea level. The mountain dominates the landscape and is clearly visible from quite a distance. The remaining settlements of the small state spread out around the Monte Titano. Whilst the historic old town nestles high up along the mountain slope, modern residential districts, shops, commercial areas and roads lie further below. This contrast between mediaeval architecture and contemporary everyday life is one of San Marino's particular charms.
With an area of around 61 square kilometres and approximately 34,000 inhabitants , the republic is among the smallest states in the world. San Marino is neither a member of the European Union nor part of Italy, yet it uses the euro and maintains close economic and social ties with its large neighbour. There is no formal border control when entering from Italy. It was possible to simply drive through in the car. Only the road signs and the surroundings made it clear that we had crossed into another country.
Taking the lift up to the old town
One of the pleasant surprises of the visit was the parking situation. Those arriving in San Marino by car might initially assume that the old town's steep position makes the journey somewhat complicated. In practice, however, the tourist infrastructure is exceptionally well organised. A car park was found right at the foot of the slope, at a pleasingly reasonable price. From there, it was not necessary to climb the steep ascent to the historic old town on foot. Several public lifts connect the various levels and bring visitors comfortably to the top. Use of the lifts was free of charge.
Once at the top, an entirely different world opens up. Narrow alleyways, mediaeval stone buildings, small squares and historic structures define the scene. The old town feels like a self-contained little city high above the surrounding landscape, even as modern San Marino spreads out far below the mountain. Also striking was the number of German tourists present, which came as a surprise. German could be heard repeatedly in the alleyways and at the viewpoints. San Marino appears to be a popular day-trip destination, particularly among German holidaymakers visiting Italy.
A republic with more than 1,700 years of history
San Marino's history is remarkable. According to tradition, the republic was founded in 301 AD by the Christian stonemason Marinus , who came from the Dalmatian island of Rab and is said to have sought refuge on Monte Titano from religious persecution. From a small Christian community, an independent polity gradually developed over the centuries. San Marino therefore lays claim to the status of the oldest surviving republic in the world. The historical record for its earliest period cannot be fully verified, yet its long tradition of political independence is beyond dispute.
Particularly remarkable is the fact that this small state managed to preserve its independence over many centuries. While territories on the Italian peninsula shifted, kingdoms rose and fell, San Marino maintained its sovereignty. The republic even survived the unification of Italy in the 19th century as an independent state. Giuseppe Garibaldi, one of the most important figures of the Italian unification movement, briefly found refuge in San Marino in 1849.
To this day, the republic has its own constitutional tradition, a parliament, a government and two heads of state. The so-called Capitani Reggenti are elected for six-month terms. This unusual system is designed to prevent too much political power from becoming concentrated in the hands of any single individual.
Between the Government Palace and armed guards
Whilst strolling through the old town, one is repeatedly reminded that this is indeed a sovereign state. Ministries, administrative offices and other state institutions sit alongside souvenir shops, cafés and mediaeval buildings. Particularly impressive is the Palazzo Pubblico on the Piazza della Libertà. This neo-Gothic building from the late 19th century is the republic's government palace and the seat of key state institutions, where official ceremonies and political events are held.
In front of and around the state buildings, uniformed security personnel can be encountered, some of them armed. This is an initially unfamiliar sight when one has just been strolling through a tourist-filled old town. At the same time, it all seems entirely matter-of-fact. San Marino presents itself not as an artificially staged open-air museum, but as what it genuinely is: an independent state with functioning institutions, a long history and a strong sense of its own independence. It is precisely this contrast that proved so fascinating. Within just a few hundred metres, one encounters mediaeval history, international tourism and the political day-to-day life of a sovereign nation.
Three fortress towers above the landscape
Among San Marino's best-known landmarks are the three towers on Monte Titano. They define the mountain's silhouette and can also be seen on the state coat of arms. The oldest and most famous fortress is the Guaita, which served as a defensive structure as far back as the Middle Ages. The second tower, the Cesta, stands on the highest peak of Monte Titano and today houses a museum of historic weapons. The third tower, Montale, stands slightly apart and is smaller than the other two.
The fortifications serve as a reminder that San Marino's geographical position played an important role in defending its independence over the centuries. The steep mountain offered natural protection, while the fortifications secured the approaches to the city. Since 2008, the historic centre of San Marino and Monte Titano have been listed as a UNESCOWorld Heritage Site. Recognised in particular is the exceptional continuity of an independent republic whose political and urban heritage has been preserved to this day.
Also the Basilica di San Marino is one of the most significant buildings in the old town. This neoclassical place of worship, dating from the 19th century, is dedicated to the republic's founder, Marinus, and ranks among the most important religious sites in the republic.
A spectacular view stretching to the Adriatic
What will stay with me most vividly from our visit is the view. From the numerous vantage points in the old town, one can look far out across the landscape of Emilia-Romagna and the surrounding hills. On a clear day, even the Adriatic coastline is visible. The sheer scale of this panorama was something I had not anticipated. Standing high up on Monte Titano, with the rooftops and streets far below and a vast landscape stretching all the way to the horizon, the sight alone makes the journey to San Marino worthwhile.
One further small detail also caught our attention in a positive way: visitors to the old town have access to free public Wi-Fi . This may seem a minor convenience at first glance, but it is genuinely practical, particularly for international guests.
San Marino as a day trip from Rimini
Those spending their holiday on the Adriatic coast can easily include San Marino as a day trip. From Rimini, the drive takes approximately 30 to 45 minutes by car, depending on the starting point and traffic. The republic is also reachable without a private vehicle, as regular bus services run between Rimini and San Marino. For visitors arriving by car, several car parks and multi-storey car parks are available. In addition to the public lifts, there is also a cable carconnecting the lower-lying town of Borgo Maggiore with the historic capital. Unlike the lifts we used, however, this service is subject to a charge.
A leisurely stroll through the old town, a visit to several viewpoints and a first impression of San Marino can all be comfortably achieved in just a few hours. Those wishing to explore the fortress towers, museums and historic buildings in greater depth should allow considerably more time.
A welcome saving at the petrol station to finish
As it happened, San Marino had one more small surprise in store for us on the way back. Driving down Monte Titano, we still needed to fill up with petrol. The thought occurred to us: since we were already in San Marino, why not do so here? We did indeed find a petrol station where a litre of petrol was on offer for just 1.76 euros, which was noticeably lower than the roughly 1.99 euros we had seen at many Italian petrol stations at the time, to say nothing of petrol prices back in Germany.
And so our spontaneous trip to San Marino proved to be not only an interesting discovery, but also rounded things off with a pleasingly affordable tank of petrol.
A small detour well worth making
For us, San Marino was a spontaneous stopover on the journey back from Rimini to Pozzuoli. We had no great expectations and had made no elaborate sightseeing plans. Perhaps that was precisely why this small state came as such a pleasant surprise. I had been anticipating a pretty historic old town perched on a hilltop. What we found instead was a striking mountain landscape, spectacular views and a republic whose history and political independence are quite extraordinary.
San Marino is far more than a tourist attraction near Rimini. It is a country with its own identity, its own institutions and a history stretching back to late antiquity. After our walk around the town and the stop at the petrol station, we finally made our way back onto the motorway heading towards Pozzuoli. The detour had added a little time to what was already a long journey home, but it was well worth it. For me, San Marino ranks among the most surprising discoveries of our travels through Italy so far.
