The Emilia-Romagna is a region where culinary tradition does not end up in a museum but appears quite naturally on the plate, and often directly in the hand. Many dishes rooted in simple peasant cooking have today become street food. They are freshly prepared at village festivals, markets and small food stalls, and demonstrate how closely pleasure, history and everyday life are intertwined here. The region positions itself as Italy's Food Valley, with 45 European-protected products to date. Those wishing to explore the Emilia-Romagna through its cuisine will find far more than pasta and Parmigiano Reggiano PDO. Here is an overview of ten regional specialities, from the Chisöla in the Val Tidone to the Piadina on the Adriatic coast.
Chisöla: a focaccia with history
In the Val Tidone near Piacenza, the Chisöla is part of the region's culinary heritage. This hearty focaccia is made from flour, crackling, lard, yeast, water and salt, and is recognised as a traditional agricultural and food product. A legend surrounds it: when Frederick Barbarossa marched through the Val Tidone with his army in 1155, the local population is said to have supplied his hungry soldiers with large quantities of Chisöla. Today the speciality is celebrated at the Festa d'la Chisöla in Borgonovo Val Tidone, traditionally held on the first Sunday in September. It pairs well with the wines of the Colli Piacentini PDO, in particular the fresh Ortrugo.
Erbazzone reggiano: peasant cuisine with an EU designation
The Erbazzone from Reggio Emilia also has its roots in simple rural cooking. Between two layers of unleavened pastry lies a well-seasoned filling of spinach and chard, onions, lard, breadcrumbs and Parmigiano Reggiano. As the official portal of the Regione Emilia-Romagna records in its announcement, the Erbazzone reggiano has carried the European PGI designation since March 2026, making it the 45th protected product of the Emilia-Romagna. It is a testament to how an everyday dish can become a speciality with internationally recognised protected origin status. The Erbazzone can be enjoyed at any time of day, and in Reggio Emilia it is also popular as a breakfast alternative to a croissant, eaten alongside a cappuccino.
Gnocco fritto: crispy, light and best served with ham
In Modena it is known as Gnocco fritto, in Parma as Torta fritta. These small, golden-fried pieces of dough are crispy on the outside, light and airy within, and are traditionally served still warm alongside regional charcuterie and ham specialities. Particularly good pairings include Prosciutto di Parma PDO, Prosciutto di Modena PDO, Coppa di Parma PGI or Salame Felino PGI, accompanied by a glass of Lambrusco PDO. For a truly authentic experience, Gnocco fritto is best enjoyed as it was traditionally served in many families: straight from the chopping board on which the grandmother had freshly prepared the dough pieces. Those wishing to learn more about Prosciutto di Parma will have the opportunity to do so in September 2026 at the Festival del Prosciutto di Parma in Langhirano : during "Finestre Aperte", producers open their doors and offer a glimpse into the production process.
Tigelle: when eating becomes a convivial ritual
The Tigelle are among the classics from the Apennines of Modena. These small flatbreads are baked between special plates, the original "tigelle" after which the dish is named, and then brought to the table warm. Essential to the experience is the pesto modenese, made from finely chopped lard, garlic and rosemary, frequently enriched with Parmigiano Reggiano. These are accompanied by prosciutto, salame, coppa and other regional specialities. What makes Tigelle distinctive is the way in which they are eaten: together, in a large group, with each person assembling their own combination. In Modena, this is less a quick snack and more a leisurely, sociable meal.
Borlenghi: wafer-thin street food from the Apennines
Less well known but well worth discovering, the Borlenghi from the Modenese Apennines are a delight. The wafer-thin, crispy dough is made from a very simple mixture of flour, water and salt. As with Tigelle, it is topped with the cunza, a robust mixture of lard, garlic and rosemary, crowned with grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Folded and eaten directly from the hand, the result is a wonderfully aromatic snack. The ideal opportunity to discover Borlenghi is at the autumn festivals celebrating chestnuts and truffles throughout the Apennines.
Crescenta bolognese: a classic born from leftovers
The Crescenta illustrates the resourcefulness of the Emilia-Romagna's peasant cuisine. Originally, leftover bread dough was enriched with a little lard and the flavoursome end piece of the ham, the Gambuccio. The result was a fragrant, light focaccia, today enjoyed with pancetta, prosciutto or Mortadella Bologna PGI . Those wishing to experience the famous Mortadella first-hand should head to Zola Predosa near Bologna in October: from 9 to 11 October 2026, the "Mortadella Please" festival offers three days of celebration, tastings and cooking.
Coppia Ferrarese: bread with a look all of its own
A bread that is instantly recognisable by its appearance comes from Ferrara. The Coppia Ferrarese PGI consists of two intertwined strands of dough, its shape reminiscent of a cross or an X. The twisted ends, known as the Crostini, turn out particularly crispy. The bread has a long history and is said to have been served at the Este court as far back as the 16th century. Today it accompanies, among other things, the Salama da Sugo g.g.A., another speciality from Ferrara. For many children in Ferrara, the crispy end pieces that their nonna buys at the baker's are a firm fixture among everyday snacks.
Tortelli alla lastra: square pleasure from the Apennines
In the Apennines of the province of Forlì-Cesena, the Tortello alla lastra is one of the traditional specialities of the Romagna. Unlike the crescent-shaped Cassone (see below), it is square and baked on a hot stone slab, hence the name. The dough is made from wheat flour, water and a little of the cooking water from the pumpkin, while the filling consists of pumpkin, potatoes, onions, lard and Pecorino. Frying the vegetables first lends it a particularly rich flavour. Originally a typical poor man's dish, born of the simple ingredients of the sparse Apennines, the Tortello alla lastra is traditionally eaten above all in late autumn and around All Saints' Day. Today it is an unpretentious snack made from just a handful of regional ingredients.
Piadina: the best-known speciality of the Romagna
When it comes to street food from Emilia-Romagna, the Piadina is indispensable. The Piadina Romagnola g.g.A. is well known beyond Italy's borders, yet in the Romagna it is still prepared fresh as a matter of course at a kiosk or small Piadineria. Regional differences do exist: around Ravenna and Forlì-Cesena it tends to be slightly thicker, whereas in Rimini and its province it is baked thinner and crispier. The classic filling is Squacquerone di Romagna g.U., Prosciutto di Parma g.U. and rocket. Another very popular variant is filled with grilled Sardoncini, small fish from the Adriatic, onion and salad leaves. A freshly made Piadina is the ideal companion for a short break or an effortless lunch at the beach, best paired with a glass of Sangiovese from the Romagna. The festival "La pis un pò ma tot" in Bellaria-Igea Marina from 11 to 13 September 2026 is devoted entirely to these flatbreads.
Cassone: the filled sibling of the Piadina
Those who prefer their Piadina closed can order a Cassone or Crescione in the Romagna, the name depending on the local area. The flatbread is filled, folded over and then baked directly on the hot slab. Popular varieties include the Cassone "Rosso" with tomato and mozzarella, and the Cassone "Verde" with leafy vegetables such as chard, spinach or wild herbs. At the Piadina kiosks, everything is prepared fresh and in full view of the guests.
